Wednesday, June 25, 2008

GZ/Arts de la Mode


The line for the D'Orsay at noon was daunting. Seeing the tour buses lining the Seine as we approached from the Tulleries Gardens (where we had exited the metro- photo at right) was a tip off. There was no way we were going to brave that crowd outside- or inside- where I knew from experience it would be frustrating to see the art through the herding tourists. So being agile travelers, we popped open our guide book and decided to wander towards the Lourve and perhaps visit one of the smaller galleries where the 'Mona Lisa Mandatory' crowds would not be.

(And here I recall a passage from a Vonnegut book in which he speaks of his sister Edith's ability to absorb art and its emotional offering in a condensed way. He said she once opined that she could roller skate through the Lourve, zooming past each masterpiece saying "Got it, got it, got it.")

We all easily agreed to visiting the Musee des Arts de la Mode, fashion and decorative arts. Again cheap-the girls free and 8 euro for me-we entered the newly opened Valentino exhibit. On first glance of the pleated, ruffled, shaped and perfect gowns, we all swooned a little, Plez especially, who was a Valentino convert by the end. After a few cases, glass walls in front of life size silver manequins, I turned the corner and spotted the back of a gown I recognized immediately. It was the dress Julia Roberts wore to accept her Oscar in 2001. I am an unapologetic fan, (Pretty Woman is in my Top 10 Films!) and had in fact just watched the awful Runaway Bride on the plane in my insomnia coming across the Atlantic.

It was then that I realized that in addition to the designer's archives there would be dresses worn by women the girls knew of (Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy's wedding dress to Onassis), some I knew of (NYC socialite Nan Kemper) and others unknown to us, (European Royals.) Some of it was 'old lady-ish' because, of course, it had been commssioned by old ladies. But there were many timeless and wearable gowns, suitable for beauties of any age attending a black tie affair.

Even Fedora (less of a rabid fashion follower,) tolerated the tour and quick walk through the 'Joaillier' exhibit where my heart beat fast to see so many Art Nouveau creations by native son, Lalique. We emerged famished and were planning lunch when both girls looked across the street to spot the familiar Golden Arches and begged to go to see how it was in France. In spite of my better judgment, I agreed- it wasn't very good. (I hope that is the end of the 'fast food in France' experiments.) Afretwards we hoofed up to another church (St. Roche) where I explained that the funny low ladder back chairs were for kneeling and praying.

Another perfect day in Paris. And I smile now thinkng of the juxtaposition of quintessential American icons- Julia Roberts, MacDonalds- with the French icons of Haute Couture and the Lourve and how small the world has become.

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